Basic gear is where one can usually afford to spend less. When purchasing a full kit, consideration of an item’s construction and warranties really come into play.
Before I purchased my own, I sunk a lot of time into researching different brands and looked at a million pictures of each piece. I would go to my local dive shop to get a feel for the item. I always want to make sure I love the item before I fork over the money.
Weight Belt + Soft Lead – I actually don’t own my own weight system yet, you can get away with just renting on-site at any dive shop. I usually opt for a weight-belt as it’s easier to carry the weight around my waist that on my shoulders and back. Most BCDs have weight-integration systems that make belts unnecessary but I feel more balanced with a belt. Try out a belt next time you’re at the shop. Soft lead is a more environmentally-friendly option than hard-lead weights. If an emergency ascent is necessary, dropping soft-lead will cause less damage to the dive site.
Exposure Suits
Wetsuit – I own 2 suits currently, one is actually lost and in the middle of being replaced. Depending on the dive site, you could go without one or you might need the thickest one available. There are so many types of exposure suits in varying thicknesses, colors, hood attachments and styles. There are regular wetsuits, semi-dry wetsuits, and dry suits. Although the perfect suit would be custom-made for your body, unless you have serious money for that, a normal suit will suffice. For California diving, use a 7mm. Your choice of back-zip, front-zip or farmer John/Jane style. Make sure you can move, it should be snug but not too restricting.
Hood/Vest – Some suits come with a hood attachment, some do not. I had a semi-dry wetsuit with a hood attachment, and I have a surf suit (for pool use only) that does not have a hood. Diving in cold water requires a hood to minimize heat loss from the head. These really make a difference once you hit the thermocline!
Life Support
Primary Regulator – One of the most expensive pieces of SCUBA gear, mostly because they come with a first stage and a second stage. The first stage is where all of your attachments will join the tank. Choose one with a nice mouth piece, a color you like and features you think you’ll need. Travel options are also available for this equipment, these are lighter and more compact options. Hoses can be adjusted to your liking, you might find a longer hose is necessary.
Alternate Regulator (Emergency/Octopus) – The emergency back-up regulator, mine are the same model. This is only used for emergency air-sharing but should be checked before each dive.
Buoyancy Compensating Device (BCD) – BCDs come in all styles: jacket, back-inflating, etc. Choose one to your liking and make yourself a pro at operating it. Know what each feature is for. Some BCDs have weight-integrated systems, which means you can remove the weight belt from your kit all together. These pockets usually have a quick-release system that you and your buddy should know how to operate. Try to opt for a more streamlined BCD to minimize drag.
Gauges
Submersible Pressure Gauge (SPG) – This nifty gadget measures the amount of air left in your cylinder by using pressure. A cautious diver makes a great diver, always remember to check your pressure often! A gauge should be in measurements you’re comfortable with. They usually come in bar or psi (pounds per square inch). Can be grouped with depth gauge and compass in a console for a more streamlined approach.
Depth Gauge – A depth gauge measures your depth underwater. Most analog depth gauges include a maximum depth indicator needle that mark your deepest depth for record keeping. This gauge can be replaced by a dive computer as most measure depth and can provide a detailed depth profile after your dive. If you do opt to use a dive computer over a depth gauge, make sure your battery and computer are always operating appropriately.
Compass – Navigation underwater is a tricky ordeal. A compass is essential when there are no noticeable features. Many forget how important a compass is until they need one. Make sure you’re always aware of your position.
Dive Computers – Typically the size of a watch, most come with incredibly useful features. Nowadays, computers can have their software upgraded, air integration and preset profiles. The price ranges wildly. Choose something that can keep time, measure depth (removing the depth gauge from your kit), and give you the no-deco time of your dive. Everything else is an extra, that you don’t NEED to pay for but can come in handy. You can dive without a computer by just using your certifications’ dive tables. Many dive shops rent their BCDs with a console that includes a computer, pressure gauge and a compass. Dive computers can be wrist-mounted or put into a console.
This gear makes up the basic equipment required for a proper ocean dive. Night dives, wreck dives, and other specialty dives usually require a bit more equipment and extras. I will address these in another post.
Diving Into Oceanography 